Short stay: Palais Amani, Fez, Morocco

Amani means desire or wish in Arabic. The Palais Amani gives guests the chance to fulfil their dreams of living at the heart of Fez’s ancient and authentic Medina. For guests the Palais Amani, with is opulent Arab-Andalusian style, is their home for a few precious days, as they savour an imperial city of colours and flavours.

Fez is a city where there are hands-on opportunities to engage with the people. Guests may learn traditional Fez skills such as baking, calligraphy and cooking. Or they can just relax in the Hamman.

The welcome

Leaving the car and the 21st century behind, a porter took my luggage through the entrance into the labyrinthine tangle of over 9,500 alleys – beyond mapping and beyond GPS – that is Fez’s ancient Medina.

At the Palais Amani there is a traditional Arabic welcome for weary travellers: chilled flannel, iced lemonade and biscotti. I relax on a sofa in the riad’s haven of peace – amongst lemon, orange and…